Ten Training Maxims

As a professional dog trainer, I watch clients struggling with the same things when trying to get their dogs to communicate with them. Unfortunately, our society has encouraged dog owners to treat their pets as little furry humans rather than a completely distinct species. That's not to say that dogs don't experience similar "emotions" or "states" as humans do. But when walking down the aisles of the pet store these days, products are specifically geared to ascribe human qualities to our dogs. Tshirts for dogs bearing phrases like "bad to the bone" or "princess" encourage people to ascribe human attributes where they don't exist. No wonder we don't understand our dogs!





Below are ten tips that I give as a handout to all my clients on their first training session.

1. Dogs only do what works for them. Period. If it has no immediate benefit for them (that they can determine) then they will not do it. A dog will not wash the dishes or do the laundry because there is no payoff for a dog to do these things. A dog will sit if he understands what you want and gets a reward afterwards for doing it. A dog can learn to run an entire agility course just for the chance to play a game of tug afterwards. If you stop rewarding, however, the dog will stop working. If you put money into a vending machine and press the button you expect something to come out. If nothing comes out, do you put money in it again? Of course not. You stop trying.


2. Your dog has impeccable hearing skills. He heard you the first time. Do not chant commands at your dog. Do not repeat yourself. A command is given once in a sensible tone of voice. If your dog doesn’t do as you asked there can only be two reasons why:
   · He doesn’t understand what you want yet. Explain what you want again and be kind, deliberate and understanding. Maybe go a little slower this time.
   · He’s decided you aren’t serious. Get serious. If he truly understands what you’re asking then he’s lost faith in you. Don’t wait for the mood to strike him. If you want him to sit and he doesn’t sit, go to him, quietly get him to sit and praise lavishly. If you’re not prepared to back up your command with action, don’t give the command.


3. Your dog does not speak English (or any verbal language for that matter). He just doesn’t understand the concept of spoken language. He can only associate certain sounds with consequences, actions and behaviours. He doesn’t understand the cost of his chewing on your Herman Miller leather chaise or the angst you feel from his peeing on the antique Iranian Safavid Period carpet. The more you talk during training the more he will learn to tune out your voice. That’s a terrible mistake to make when one day you need your dog to STOP before he runs into traffic. By all means, talk to your dog during your day-to-day life with him. He loves your voice! Just be aware that during training and when working for you, he requires a lot less noise to be able to concentrate.


4. Dogs learn cause and effect very, very quickly. If your dog doesn’t seem to be learning something, you are not being clear enough to your dog. Consistency is the cornerstone to dog training. That means the same thing happens EVERY SINGLE TIME something else happens. If your dog jumps on you and you want to discourage it, show the dog that his jumping makes you turn your back and leave the room. Crystal clear. Every time. No exceptions. He will learn not to jump on you if you can be consistent. If you cannot be consistent, rethink your expectations of your dog. He’s not a mind reader.


5. Don’t forget to praise your dog! If he only hears about how he did something wrong how will he possibly know when he got it right? Give him a hint, spell it out: this is wrong and this is right! Be delighted and animated when he pleases you. He’ll want to repeat it!


6. Control the head of the dog and you control the whole dog. This principle is aptly demonstrated with a Gentle Leader head collar and lure-reward training. If your dog is not looking at you he is not going to listen to you. Eye contact is critical to training. Get your dog looking at you and then give a command for greater success.


7. Know when to train and when not to train. Dogs cannot learn when they are in pain, need to eliminate, when they’re afraid or in an overly distracting environment. A hungry dog, however, will be eager to focus on you if you are delivering treat rewards. If something seems to be hampering your dog’s concentration, check the environment for distractions, make sure he doesn’t need to eliminate, change your location to a more familiar one or make sure he isn’t too wound up or too tired to focus.


8. Ideally, your dog’s name should only be paired with good news and happy situations. Growling your dog’s name in a fierce voice is not going to leave a great impression in his mind. Try your best to use, “Hey! AAAH! No! Stop it! Whoa!” or some other words to signal your displeasure.


9. Dogs don’t exercise themselves. Ten acres of land will not tire a dog out. Throwing a ball will.


10. A 10 lb. puppy that bites will grow into a 70 lb. dog that bites even harder. Teeth and skin should never meet. Ever.

Every time you interact with your dog you are training. How you behave around your dog has a tremendous impact on how your dog behaves. If there's something your dog's doing that doesn't please you, try to look at yourself first to see if you might be causing it. If we can learn to watch ourselves, our dogs will learn more quickly.

Submitted by: Jennifer Legere

Early Socialization = A Healthy Dog

You’ve probably heard the same story from every corner of dogdom: early, positive, vigorous and ongoing socialization is critical for your puppy’s good development. So just what exactly is meant by socialization?


While a puppy is riding the rollercoaster of learning and growing it becomes increasingly important to expose her to situations, people and objects that she is likely to encounter in her lifetime. It’s not as difficult as you may think, really. We can assume that most dogs will experience many of the same things: the vet, the groomer, Aunt Zelda and her walker, little kids with cookies in their hands squealing, “Puppy!”, men in hats, women in flowing dresses, cars, plastic bags, recycle bins, skateboards, wheelchairs, bicycles and so on. That’s just the variety of life in a human’s world.

Once a puppy leaves for a new home at 8 weeks of age the momentum of socialization can slow down while the new owner struggles to get a grip on toileting, puppy teething and all the day-to-day things that raising a puppy entails. But this is the worst time to become complacent! Physiologically a puppy is perfectly designed to learn new things before the age of 12 weeks. Her natural curiosity coupled with soft jaws and undeveloped motor skills offer a window of time where new experiences, good and bad, are easily learned and often last a lifetime. With a little planning, owners can set up safe and positive situations where a puppy can learn about the world around her.

Years ago vets discouraged owners from taking young puppies outside at all in the misguided view of protecting them from transmissible diseases. New research indicates that as long as the puppy has received its first set of vaccinations, the benefit of socialization outweighs the chance of infection if certain precautions are taken. Keeping the puppy away from areas used by many dogs, inviting guests and safe dogs to socialize in your home and yard and toting your pup in your arms are ways to minimize the dangers of infection and still accomplish your socialization goals.


Certain dogs need more practice at socializing than others while some dogs benefit from occasional “tune ups” from time to time. So just how bad can it be if socialization is allowed to slide? Well, that depends upon the “plasticity” of the dog. A dog’s plasticity, or bounce-back-ability, is dependant upon many factors including breed, age, health, previous experiences, temperament and history of socialization. For example, a dog which was bred to be an independent thinker with quick reflexes and a natural wariness may not as easily adapt to varying environmental conditions as, say, a dog which was bred to accompany his master for hours at a time on a hunt or while fishing. It should come as no surprise that a Manchester Terrier is a breed that will likely require more intense, careful and ongoing socialization than your average Labrador Retriever.

What happens if you’ve adopted an adult dog who hasn’t received adequate socialization as a puppy? This is very often the case with puppies that have been removed from the litter too early in life or that have grown up in a kennel environment. Often these dogs will respond with barking, lunging and biting when surprised, pressured, cornered or while on lead. When a dog’s “plasticity” is very low, even a seemingly small event can trigger an outburst. Sadly, this is the fate of many dogs surrendered to shelters throughout North America. Dogs that cannot tolerate people have far worse outcomes than dogs that dislike the company of other dogs or animals since too many “mistakes” with people can label a dog “dangerous”. In this very litigious society of ours, that label can be a death sentence for the dog. For an under-socialized adult dog, improving her opinion of the world can be difficult and, in some cases, very little can be done. With the guidance of a qualified trainer, desensitization and counter-conditioning of the feared stimuli can help a dog learn to relax and trust that she’s safe. Although painstakingly repetitive and slow, remedial socialization is possible with a carefully thought-out plan.

A dog’s health can affect her behaviour and ability to cope with the rigors of modern life. Painful skin conditions, joint, dental or muscle pain, thyroid and other hormone disorders and wounds can make a dog very touchy and unlike her normal self. Often it is a behaviour change that signals a decline in health so watching your dog for signs of out-of-character behaviour can often lead to an early diagnosis.

Sometimes, despite our best intentions, something comes along and scares a puppy during the socialization phase and we find ourselves dealing with a dog that’s scared of the strangest things. I really don’t know when or how but I have a beautifully socialized, athletic, healthy four year old Toy Manchester Terrier who shrieks if he sees the bottom of a foot. He certainly wasn’t intentionally kicked but somewhere along the way he generalized the sight of a lifted foot with a frightening situation. Although he is always going to struggle with formal obedience heeling exercises he never runs away from us or bolts at the door.

Socialization ideally will continue for the life of the dog. If you stop taking your dog to places and exposing her positively to a variety of situations you risk losing ground. By making the most of that first year, your dog will reward you with great behaviour for years to come. Living a life rich with variety, companionship and security are basic rights that every dog deserves.

Submitted by: Jennifer Legere

Mannies and Babies

Our SMT's were our babies for many years. Now we have a two legged baby added to the mix. Piper and Wrigley lived in a baby free zone for 7 and 4 years respectively so it was a big adjustment for them. I have to admit the first two weeks that Alyssa was home were a bit hectic. Not only did the dogs have to deal with new sounds and a wiggly little person, they had a very hormonal "Mama Bear" to contend with.

The dogs have transitioned well and I'm very pleased with how things are going. It's fun to see how they interact.

Piper is quick with kisses on the baby's bare feet. Twice as quick when a cheerio hits the floor. She has also done the most adjusting. Very in touch with her terrier side, Piper wasn't sure the crying, wiggling bundle of joy needed to be in our house at first but with patience and time has come to realize that Alyssa can be a lot of fun.

Wrigley was very good with the baby right off the bat. He's a mother hen and is hot on my heels when I enter the baby's room each morning. He is very gentle and when the baby crawls near him, he flips over onto his back in surrender. I think they'll be great friends in the future.

When the dogs are around Alyssa, I'm very watchful. Derek would probably say too watchful! However, it's better to be safe. Alyssa is learning how to be respectful of the dog's space and to be gentle and the dogs are learning to accept Alyssa.

I'd enjoy hearing other member's stories about their dogs and children.

Submitted by: Janice Thompson

Summertime with the Manchesters

Well, summer is (finally) here! Many of us are out and about much more with our MTs enjoying the fine weather. Here are a few tips to make your summer adventures a bit more fun for you and your MT:

• remember to bring along fresh water when out for lengthy walks or adventures. Be careful not to allow your dog to drink out of stagnant pools of water. These often contain unhealthy bacteria or parasites. Some lake water may also contain harmful algae growth which can actually be fatal to dogs. It is much safer to provide your dog with water you know is clean.
  
• try to find a dog-safe bug spray when out in areas where dogs will come in contact with mosquitoes, black fly, or other biting bugs. We use all-natural sprays which use lemongrass, ginger and other extracts. We try to avoid those with heavy chemicals.
  
• some Manchesters react to certain bug bites. If you MT has an allergic reaction to a bug bite or a bee sting you can give him/her a dose of antihistamine, such as Bendryl at a dosage of 1mg/lb. We carry Bendryl with us whenever we go out with the dogs in the summer.
  
• if you are in an area with ticks, make sure you check your MT on a regular basis for unwelcome "visitors". For instructions on how to remove a tick, click here.
• if you are in a high-risk area for heartworm (in Canada that includes southern Ontario, southern Quebec, Manitoba and the Okanagan in British Columbia) you should consider using medication to prevent heartworm. This condition is transmitted via infected mosquitoes. If you are planning to travel to a high-risk area this summer be sure to discuss this with your vet before travelling.
  
• when planting your garden, keep your MT in mind. There are a number of plants that are safe for humans but not for dogs. Some of these plants may only cause minor upsets if ingested, while others may have more tragic results. For a listing of some plants to avoid, click here.
• keep an eye on dogs near swimming pools and other bodies of water. Unfortunately there are still too many incidents of accidental drownings of dogs. Sometimes dogs that fall into pools or other bodies of water panic and can't find the a way out.
• watch out for overheating. Our MTs are black and tan...they absorb heat. And although our guys LOVE to sunbathe they still need access to shade and cooler places. In the heat of the summer make sure there are cool places for your MT to relax out of the sun.

So, take some time with your MT and enjoy the summer! And, for your viewing pleasure...here is Tillie enjoying her summer dress (and yes, she truly LOVES dressing up)!

Submitted by: Jennifer Tomes