Your Puppy's Chewing Needs

Soon after you bring you puppy home you’ll realize that she is starting to chew, gnaw, mouth and pull on everything in sight.

Just like human babies, dogs receive two sets of teeth in their lifetime. The 28 baby teeth arrive between 3 and 6 weeks of age. By 4 months of age, these baby teeth begin to loosen in the gums and fall out, making way for the 42 new adult teeth underneath. Once the adult teeth have arrived around 6 months of age, it can take another couple of months before they settle in the jaw and firm up in their new positions. That means that the ravenous chewing period continues even after the adult teeth have arrived.

Puppy proofing your home is the first thing you absolutely must do. It's exactly the same thing as baby proofing but for dogs: removing unsafe things so puppy won't get hurt or into trouble. It helps to get down on your hands and knees and look from her vantage point. What can you see? Some of the most common targets puppies go for are:

• electrical cords and outlets
• pillows, blankets, throw rugs
• houseplants
• hanging curtains and towels, table linens
• cupboards that don't close
• garbage cans
• shoes in closets, slippers
• laundry left outside the hamper

Be prepared to keep your home puppy proofed until your dog is *at least* 8 months old. As she progresses, introduce a few new things slowly back into the household so she can become used to a normal house and its contents. Of course, medications, poisons, cleaners, garbage, houseplants must be out of the dog's reach FOR LIFE. We just cannot risk a curious dog trying an experiment.

Some rooms cannot be adequately puppy proofed so they become out of bounds. Close doors, use baby gates and block off areas that puppy is absolutely not allowed into. Your puppy won't need full run of the house right away because potty training is probably already in progress now. You want to keep an extra careful watch on her now to set her up for success. Keep the pup's environment simple, clean, safe and manageable. The thing your pup wants the most is your attention and guidance, not more space.

So, now that the house is "safe" for puppy, you have to provide her with alternatives to satisfy her chewing needs. Yes, dogs most certainly do have chewing needs (just some more than others). It excercises their jaws, calms them, feels good and can be just plain fun. A dog that has nothing to chew will either chew the wrong thing or chew itself. Give her at least 5 different things to chew. Some safe and guaranteed-to-please toys are:


Kong toys

(stuffed with dog kibble, a dab of peanut butter, frozen baby carrots, frozen peas, etc.) These can be a magical bit of wonder to a curious puppy. The deeper you stuff the goodies, the harder pup has to work to contort her tongue to get it out. Watch the calories, though. Try to stick to low calorie foods (frozen are good for sore gums), the pup's regular food, a couple of treats, and remember you can freeze the toy and offer for a cool treat. Not on carpets, though, for obvious reasons. Wash the toy in hot, soapy water. Supervision isn't necessary while pup is using this toy if the pieces are small and puppy understands the toy's concept.

Frozen Washcloth

A rolled up, soaked and frozen washcloth is a cost-effective thing to help pup get over chewing attacks and sore gums. Supervision is needed as some pups will pull the washcloth apart and eat it. Just watch her and see how it goes. Soak a washcloth in plain water (or add a tablespoon of prepared beef boullion, or a tiny sprinkle of garlic powder, mmmm), lay flat on the counter, roll up lenthwise and freeze for a few hours. Make a bunch all at once so you have a stack of them ready to go. Go to a dollar store, buy a 12 pack of washcloths, soak-em and go. Put in the regular laundry to clean.

Nylabones

Nylabone brand bones are excellent for heavy chewers (not gumabone: they’re too soft). They come in many shapes, sizes and flavours. Pick a few and see which types she likes. Beware not to buy them too small, though. Bigger is better with these as they provide more challenge and effort. Supervision isn't necessary with this toy if the size is appropriate and the dog can't swallow it.

Ice Cubes

An ice cube on a hard floor is fun to run around chasing, licking and biting. Supervise since it might go somewhere awkward or out-of-bounds or someone might slip on the water trail left behind. Dogs usually love ice cubes. Put a few in the water bowl and see what happens.

Puzzle Toys / Treat Dispensing Toys

My favourite is the orange-coloured “Tricky Treats” ball which must be rolled around on the floor so that treats inside fall out a bit at a time. This is a toy that you must teach your dog how to operate. Make a game of it. Sit on the floor with the toy and some really good treats (little pieces at first). Give the pup a few treats from your hand to get her charged up and interested. Then put a treat beside the ball on the floor for the dog to take. Then put a treat on top of the ball so the dog can get it. Do it a few times more to get the dog intereted in the ball. Roll it around for her to show her that it moves and is fun. Put a few very small pieces of treat in the ball and excitely roll it around, until one falls out - then celebrate! Show her how to get it started again if she's unsure. Soon she'll be ignoring you and focusing on the ball. Again, watch the calories with this toy. Only dry food really works in these types of toys as the wet ones stick inside, never fall out and go rotten. Wash the ball, inside and out, with hot soapy water when needed. No supervision is needed with this toy once the dog has the technique learned and has learned NOT to chew the ball apart.

Plush Toys

Plush toys are good but you really need to supervise and monitor their wear as many dogs can plow right through them and rip them to shreds. You might just end up throwing your money away once she gets good at "killing" the softer toys. You can always stitch up small holes that happen but sooner or later a plush toy "bites the dust" and cannot be salvaged. Why not take out plush toys only when you plan on playing interactively with her and put it away when you're done? You'll both get more mileage out of them.

To keep your dog's interest high and to keep your toy budget low, consider rotating your dog's toys on a weekly basis. Pick up all the toys from the floor and only put down, say 5, of your dog's favourites. Choose a rubber one, a plush one, a ball and something interactive or squeaky, for example. Once per week you can rotate the current toys "out of play" and replace them with new ones from your collection. This allows you to clean the toys at intervals and to monitor wear and tear on the toys. Items that are falling apart or nearly chewed-through can be tossed before they become dangerous to your dog.

Toys are critical to a dog's proper development - physically, mentally and socially. Even adult dogs need the enrichment and stimulation that toys provide. They help develop co-ordination, help burn off excess energy, strengthen the jaw, masssage gums and teeth, learn playing rules, feel good in the mouth and are downright fun.

Submitted by: Jennifer Legere

Trick or Treat

Halloween is upon us and this weekend our homes will be invaded by ghosts and goblins of all shapes and sizes.  This can be a stressful time for our dogs.  Be sure to keep them in mind when planning your Halloween festivities.  Below are a few helpful hints to keep them safe.

 Halloween Candy – it's a good idea to keep your Halloween loot up high.  If you don't already have a table near your door, try moving one there for Halloween night.  A high sided decorative bowl will keep little noses and paws out of the candy too.  Chocolate and artificial sweeteners like xylitol can be very toxic to dogs but don't forget about your wrappers!  Wrappers that are ingested can cause choking, upset stomachs or blockages. 

 Halloween Decorations – if you have a dog who likes to chew, keep that in mind when decorating for Halloween.  Keep extension cords hidden and out of the way.  Keep an eye on your pumpkin Halloween night.  Most people use a candle to light their pumpkins and a curious dog might knock it over and become a fire hazard.

 Trick or Treaters – every dog is different so keep in mind your dog's habits when someone comes to the door.  Some dogs bark at the doorbell or a knock at the door.  This can become a problem if you live in a high traffic area and have lots of trick or treaters.  Also, some dogs like to dart out an open door to greet the visitors.  If you have a nervous dog, they might be a bit stressed over all the costumes as well.  It's a good idea to keep your dog in a secure area during the hullabaloo.  A spare room, exercise pen, behind a baby gate or their crate would be a great place to spend the night.  Set them up with a few toys, a nice bed and try giving them a new bone like a tarter buster or rawhide.  Keeping them occupied will make for a safe and quiet night. 

 If your dog has basic obedience training, commands like "Leave It" or "Wait" will come in handy when handing out treats Halloween night.

 Have a Safe and Happy Halloween!

Hiking With Manchesters

Hiking With Manchesters

 

One of the Key factors in deciding to get a Manchester Terrier was their athleticism but in a small package.  My husband and I live in an urban area and have a city sized yard but enjoy outdoor pursuits such as hiking.  We felt that the smaller size of the Manchester would be ideal for our home life and their athletic abilities a perfect match for our camping and hiking activities.  We were not let down in these expectations and the following blog is a look at some of our adventures as well as some thoughts on taking your canine companion on outdoor adventures.

 

Before I get started I do want to mention some common sense practice for any vigorous activity done with your dog.  Ensure that your dog is physically and emotionally prepared for the activity that you are planning.  Things to consider are the age of the dog.  Very young animals should not have any high impact activity; it could cause an injury that might have a life-long effect.  Elderly or senior dogs also need to have special consideration when it comes to any long-duration or high energy pursuits.  Make sure that your dog is physically fit enough for the activity that you are planning.  Just like a human couch potato a canine couch potato will find any sudden start into a high impact activity difficult.  And sometimes overlooked but still very important, make sure that your dog is emotionally prepared for your activity.  If your dog has never been for a car ride longer than 20 minutes, you may want to practice a bit before your 5 hour road trip.  If your dog is not good in crowds, you may want to skip the city hiking trail and hit a wilderness camp instead.

 

Advanced Planning

 

I have to admit I am a bit of a planner and when it comes to camping and hiking with dogs, this is a good thing.  One of the first things that you will want to consider, especially if you plan on travelling some distance, is whether or not dogs are even welcome at you planned destination.  As an example, a couple of years ago we were planning a camping/hiking trip to Yellowstone National Park in the US.  We were sourcing out campsites and looking at some advance reservations when a note on the webpage caught my eye.  It said "Planning on bringing your pet?"  After clicking on the link I learned that dogs were not permitted more than 100 feet from any paved road in the park and must remain leashed at all times and were not permitted on any of the hiking trails.  All the National Parks in the US that I checked had the same rules.  Thankfully we learned this before making the trip there and we planned a new trip to Banff National Park in Canada instead.  However, even if your destination allows dogs, some areas may be restricted year-round or parts of the year due to concerns over habitat or interaction with the local animals.

 

What To Bring

 

Some of these things might seem obvious but a few of them we had to learn about the hard way so hopefully the list will be helpful.

 

-Food, and lots of it.  After bringing what I thought would be plenty of food and then running out in the middle of no-where....well, the dogs were NOT pleased.   Also, you may have to double or triple their usual food intake if you are doing a lot of long strenuous hiking.

-

Coats (even if it is summer).  If you are hiking in the Alpine at altitude, it can snow in August, and I think everyone knows what Manchesters think of the cold.

 

-Doggie ID.  Have them wear their dog tags and they should be either micro chipped or tattooed.  And have their ID#'s handy just in case.  I was once told to also always travel with a picture of my pet.  It makes me shudder to think of why, but it is a good tip.

 

-Emergency kit.  Everything you can think of and more.  A human first aid kit (which you should have anyway) is a good start but throw in some baby aspirin, your favourite diarrhoea/upset tummy medicine (trust me on this one) and something like nail polish remover to get pitch out of doggie hair (another one learned the hard way).  Also your vet's emergency phone number should be at hand as well, again, just in case.

 

-Tie-outs of some description or X-pens if you prefer.

 

- Crate

 

-Lots of poop bags

 

-Some favourite toys

 

-A few extra special treats for when you need to keep them occupied.

 

-Depending on where you go, bottled water and something to put it in.  If your dog will drink from a collapsible water dish, they are great for hiking.

 

On The Trail

 

Selection of your trail is an important consideration when hiking with your dog.  Trails that have rock falls, cliff-side or rock scrambling sections, assisted rope ascents/ descents, creek crossing or wet/swampy sections are not really appropriate to take your dog on.  No matter how wonderful the hike may be, think of your four-legged friend first and select one that they can safely navigate.

 

To leash or not to leash, that is the question.  I have taken my dog for off-leash hikes.  She loved it, me not so much.  I was constantly worried she would chase a squirrel off a cliff, get eaten by a cougar, get lost in the woods, get stomped by a moose, find a bear and then bring the bear back to me and many other things.  Sadly all of the things that I mention are possible and the best way to prevent them?  Keep your dogs leashed.  In addition you may be sharing the trail with people who are not dog lovers and you need to be respectful of that.

 

Trail etiquette.  The obvious one is of course pick up after your dog or remove any droppings to off the trail and bury if possible.  You are not the only one that may be using the trail, if you need to pass or are being passed make sure you dog is being polite.  Jumping up to say "Hi!" may be cute to you, but see above about people who are not dog lovers.

 

Water, water, water.  Unless you would drink the water where you are going, try and not let your dog drink it.  Parasites are no laughing matter and when you are in the wilderness, there are many more than there are in your back yard.  So pack enough to share or bring something to sterilize it with.

 

Which brings me to mosquitoes, black flies, horse flies, etc. take your pick.  Manchesters are not furry and so have no protection against these guys.  There are dog specific repellents out there but they are sometimes hard to find and some of them don't really work.  Yes, I have put DEET repellent on my dog on a horrible mosquito year (the one in Banff!)  It was out of sheer desperation.  When she went outside for a pee she was instantly covered in 300 mosquitoes.  I put the spray on my hands and then wiped her down.  It was the only thing that worked.

 

 

Hopefully you will find some of these tips helpful for any outdoor or wilderness pursuits that you have with your dog (Manchester or not).  We have greatly enjoyed our hiking and camping and with a little planning you can too!

 

Shay and Scott and Lola the Manchester

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Feeding Raw Food to Manchester Terriers

I have been experimenting with feeding raw foods to my two Toy Manchesters and thought I would share some of the information I've learned.

1. Dogs love it. It can take them a little time to get accustomed to manipulating a whole piece of meat and trying to eat it but with a little time the lesson is learned. This is, after all, yummy food!

2. It's not an exact science. The normally accepted ratio of meat/bone/organ meat is 80:10:10. This can vary widely between different dogs. Usually, if a dog is having very loose bowel movements then more bone is needed. If the dog is having very hard movements, the bone quantity should be reduced. The quantity to feed daily which is generally accepted is 2 - 3% of the dog's ideal adult body weight. For example, if your dog weighs 20 lbs and is a little heavy, you may wish to begin at 2% of her body weight (0.4 lb) and reassess her weight in a few weeks. If she's doing well, you can adjust to meet her activity level and body condition.

3. There are many types of "schools of thought" with regards to feeding raw. Some are based on prey models (simulating the consistency and makeup of typical prey animals) and other people feed ground meats with or without ground bone and some even feed vegetables. There are some people who will lightly cook their dog's food before serving, as well.

4. It can be messy. Especially in the beginning, my dogs were pushing their pieces of meat all over the kitchen floor with their noses and sliding around while standing on the pieces while they tried to tear off a piece. So I purchased a used ex-pen off Craigslist and put a gate between the two sides. Now they stay put in their corners and I don't have a lot of mopping to do afterwards.

5. It's not a fast way to feed your dogs. The chewing, ripping and gnawing action the dogs perform takes a bit of time. There is no gobbling if the pieces are large enough. If you have a dog who scarfs their food, it's better to feed a bigger, awkward piece to slow them down. But I have never fed a meal to my dogs that didn't last at least 40 minutes. This extra time is great for digestion since the stomach has lots of time to digest and process the bits as they come down "the pipe". Also, the gastric fluids have time to work on the food and break it down more efficiently.

6. It's better than any toothbrush on the market. The knawing and grinding the dogs do on the bony pieces effectively clean their teeth and the best part is that they did it all by themselves!

7. Raw bones are not as dangerous as cooked ones. Some people shy away from feeding raw because they believe bones can splinter and cause punctures within the intestines. While it's very important to always supervise your dogs while they are eating, raw bones do not splinter or chip off like cooked ones do and are consumed much more easily than you'd expect. I was very careful the first time I fed raw and was pleased to see that the uncooked bones were not difficult on my dog's systems. It's important to remember that weight-bearing bones of animals (leg bones) can be very hard on dog's teeth since they're so dense so it's best to steer clear of those.

8. Raw diets do not cause dogs to become ill. Quite the contrary. Raw diets eliminate all the unwanted processing and fillers so common in dog foods today. As long as the raw meat is human grade and not spiced or enhanced, it is safe to feed. If a wild type of meat is considered (deer, boar, bear, moose, fish) then freezing it solid for two weeks will eliminate any possibility of parasites being transmitted. Spoiled meats are not something you'd want to take chances with, either.

9. Raw diets can offer a lot of variety. If you can imagine it, it can be done. Remembering the 80:10:10 ratio, most of the meat fed will be, well, meat. A small quantity should be bone and organ meats. In the beginning, just use your eye to estimate the amount of meat:bone ratio and leave out the organ meat to give your dog time to acclimate to the change. Add in organ meat when your dog is eating well and eliminating regularly. Many people begin with chicken (fat removed) because it is very accessible and cheap. If your grocery store has a sale on duck, lamb, pork, beef, turkey, fish or mutton then stock up.

10. You need a freezer to efficiently feed raw. A chest freezer (or two) are absolutely necessary to be able to take advantage of sales and bulk purchases. Since I don't have the room for a chest freezer, I only feed raw a few times per week and make my purchases each week on grocery day. If you have multiple dogs to feed, the necessity for a large freezer is obvious.

If you're interested in learning more about raw feeding, here are a few links to get you started.

http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:http://www.rawfed.com/

http://www.rawlearning.com/

There are many people on the internet that are happy to share their knowledge of raw feeding. With a little research you can see if this option is right for your dog.

Submitted by: Jennifer Legere

Historical Notes: Why Weight?

Wondering why Manchesters are weighed and not measured, as most other terriers are? The answer speaks directly to the original development of the breed almost 200 years ago.

Today's use of weight versus height is primarily a reflection of purpose. Interested readers can trace the progressive importance of weight in the CMTC Reading Room as well as through a variety of on-line resources. Very early historical references make no mention of weight and, in fact, very little reference to size at all. As the sport of pit ratting became more popular in the 1830s-1850s and black and tan competitors became more successful, however, weight became a common accompaniment to descriptions.

Breeds that were bred to go to ground were measured for height in order to ensure that they could fit into the den. The Manchester, however, played an active role in the rat pit where the dog's weight was important because it was often tied directly to the competition. In addition to straight matches where dogs were matched against the clock or against a set number of rats, proprietors often had matches where they handicapped dogs according to their weight. Weight handicaps were particularly popular in later years when finding enough rats became difficult.

The basic premise of a weight handicap is that the heavier the dog was, the more rats it had to kill. This make sense, as a 5 pound dog killing 20 rats is a far greater feat than an 18 pound dog doing the same thing. Sometimes the handicap was a rat for every 3 pounds more a dog weighed, sometimes it was a rat for every one pound. The fastest dog killing their alottment was the winner.

According to one description "it was frequent to arrange a handicap where each dog had to kill as many rats as there were pounds in his weight, the dog disposing of his quota the quickest being the winner. For instance, a ten pound dog would only have to kill ten rats while Billy [who weighed 27 pounds] killed 27. This put rather a premium on small dogs and breeds were developed specially for this sport. The little smooth black-and-tan terriers of Manchester and the rough Yorkshire terriers were particularly good for this sport and a friend of mine owns a picture of three famous terriers ranging in weight from 5 ¼ lbs to 7 lbs." (see illustration at right "Three of the Right Sort Ratters, 1851").

Once established, the use of weight continued right through to modern day. Though the desired size range has changed over the years by a few pounds one way or another, the method of determining size has not. As for the current weight limit, I'm still looking but have not yet found the reason 22 pounds was selected. Historic breed standards have varied from a low of 18 pounds to a high of 25 pounds. Efficiency in the rat pit does not appear to be the issue as one of the most celebrated competitors in the history of the sport weighed in at 27 pounds, however anything is possible. Documentation from this era in history is scattered at best, so we'll keep looking and perhaps one day we'll have an answer!

Submitted by: Amanda Kelly

*http://www.staffordmall.com/stoutheart-rats.htm.
Scale illustration from The Complete Toy Manchester Terrier (Dempsey).

CMTC Logo Contest

Are you artistic? Have a great idea for a Manchester logo? We need you!

Members and non-members alike are invited to submit designs or artwork for a logo featuring the breed we all know and love. The designer of the winning entry will not only win bragging rights, they’ll also receive a copy of the 2010 CMTC calendar featuring the new logo and the last copy of the CMTC-commissioned print “Fetch” (shown at right). This 11x14” un-matted print was part of a limited run in 2003 and is hand-signed and numbered by artist Beth Rutherford.

To be eligible, logo designs:

• Must include both varieties of Manchester;
  Should feature a TMT (with naturally upright ears) and an SMT with cropped ears OR a TMT, an SMT with cropped ears and an SMT with button ears;
  
• Can show the dogs’ full bodies OR heads alone;
  
• May be any number of styles, from detailed designs to stylized line art. Hand-drawn artwork is welcome, but remember that the logo must be simple enough to be clear
  when big or small and to economically reproduce in a variety of mediums such as print, embroidery and silkscreen;
  
• Are limited to four (or fewer) colours and should be easily rendered in black and white. If you are working in a medium other than graphic art, consider preparing your design in a black and white version first, scanning it, and then adding colour and/or indicating that colour can be added if requested.
  
• Can include type (in which case it should clearly read Canadian Manchester Terrier Club), though this is not required. You may also consider incorporating a design element indicating this is a Canadian club.
  
• Must be received no later than October 15, 2009.

For information on how to submit your idea, visit http://www.canadamt.com/logo.htm

CMTC Fundraising

Raising funds to accomplish the many aspirations of the CMTC is a vital function, and sometimes a very challenging endeavour. We are a small club, and our annual membership fees just cover our basic costs of running the club.

To maintain our status as a breed club within the CKC, we are required to hold a national specialty a minimum every 2 years. This endeavour can easily cost $2,000+. Our ongoing health studies and the occaisional unfortunate circumstance of rescuing a Manchester in need, also are important uses of club funds. We cannot accomplish our goals without the generous support of our members and others.

While we receive cash donations throughout the year, it is not sufficient. In this section of our blog I would like to keep readers up-to-date on the various fundraising projects in progress. We are always looking for new ideas, and feedback and suggestions are always welcome.

Over the next few months we have a number of worthwhile projects on the go:

Bake Sale - coordinator: Janice Thompson thompsonsmt@eastlink.ca

The Atlantic Region members are planning a Bake Sale on November 13 and 14, 2009 at the Moncton Kennel Club shows and trials in Moncton, New Brunswick. The MKC has donated booth space for the weekend, and CMTC will also provide club literature and breed information. Janice is open to other suggestions for their booth and/or volunteers.

2010 CMTC Calendar - coordinator: Patti Taylor ptaylor1@telus.net

We are again selling our very popular Manchester calendar for the 2010 calendar year. The photos provided by participants are always outstanding and improve in quality and content every year. This year the calendars will be ready for mailing by Dec 1, and we are planning for a new lower price of $19.95 + mailing.

The funding for producing the calendar comes from the sale of each month to feature your Manchester in the calendar. A contribution of $50 features your Manchester exclusively for the month of your choice. You also receive a free calendar. All months have now been sold but you can still showcase your Manchester by purchasing a page without the month attached for $50 which includes a free calendar. We also offer commercial advertising for kennels and businesses at very reasonable rates. You do not have to be a member of CMTC to participate. Email Patti Taylor ptaylor1@telus.net for more info.

2009 CMTC Online Auction - coordinator: Tina Sandford

The club is planning an online auction to be held through the Manchester website. This will be a first for us, but we have high hopes for its success. We will be looking for donated items to list in the auction, so start gathering your wares you wish to list. More details will beprovided at a later date.

I would again like to invite anyone who wants to volunteer or has ideas to open up a dialogue in this blog.

Submitted by Patti Taylor

Canadian Top Dogs - Obedience

Dogs in Canada magazine recently released 2008's final Top Obedience standings. This year only one Manchester Terrier (of either variety) competed in obedience in Canada, but he didn't let the lack of competition hold him back.

"Higgins" (Am/Can Ch & MOTCH Kreuzritters Professor Higgins, RN) ended the year as the #4 Obedience Terrier in Canada overall with an average score of 191.4 earned in the Open B and Utility classes. He earned qualifying scores at all 17 trials he was entered in, amassing a total of 84 points. Higgins is owned and trained by Ontario's Karen MacPhee and was bred by Tina Sandford. Congratulations to all involved!

Manchesters make excellent obedience dogs... once you figure out how to make them think it was all their idea to begin with. If you are interested in competing in traditional Obedience, Rally-O or any other dog sport, contact the Canadian Manchester Terrier Club for more information!

Submitted by: Amanda Kelly

Seniors Manchesters

Manchesters can live healthy lives into their late teens.

Weegee is now almost 14 and is starting to show a few signs of slowing down. Not much...but a few. She still bounces around when she knows she is going for a walk or a car ride, but maybe she bounces just a few inches less now. The signs are subtle but they are there.

It's important to keep your older MT active, just like we humans need to stay active as we age, it keeps the body healthy. A lot of people may think that since their dog is "retired" it has the right to lay around all day and be inactive. Sure maybe they enjoy a bit more of relaxation time now but we need to keep our dogs active so that they stay healthy in their "golden years." Weegee is very young at heart, she acts the same as she did at age one. Seriously... she REALLY doesn't think of herself as old and retired!

We recently showed her in the Veterans class at a dog show and the judge, after seeing her bouncing around having fun in the ring, commented "I see no one has told HER how old she is." Weegee has no idea that she is 98 years old in human years!
Here is a video of Weegee in the Veterans ring at age 13 :)



Weegee has some greying now where her tan colouring is. She has a few bumps on her body but her spirit is very young, she has not changed on the inside at all. To me she is still a young dog. But I DO realize that the aging process is inevitable and all I can do is try my best to make it as smooth as possible.

We have regular vet check-ups to make sure that her heart is healthy, and that none of the small lumps on her body are growing into anything more serious. I supplement her diet so that she is receiving the best nutrition possible. I make sure that she gets enough exercise and that she is not allowed to be overweight. So far this is working for us.
Welcoming a new puppy into the household can also help older dogs feel younger as they can romp and play again.


The MOST important thing that I am doing is cherishing every moment I have with her. Why is it that dogs are here for only such a short time? I can't even bring myself to think of a time where Weegee is no longer in my life. She has given me so much love in her short time on earth. I do all that I can to repay her.

So treat your Seniors well. Give them lots of love, attention and care. Bust most of all, CHERISH your time with them, as their time here with us is just never long enough.

Submitted by: Lisa Wysminity

Everyday Manchesters' Blog by Daphne

My name is Daphne 2nd. My moms named me after their whippet Daphne. She was special. "So am I!"

My mom flew back to Ontario and picked me up from my breeder. I rode under the seat of the plane in a carrier bag. I was a good girl...on the plane that is.

I quickly adapted to my new home and the whippets. In fact, for the longest time I thought I was a whippet.

Not long after my moms' big event, for which I was their flower girl, my stepbrother Jethro left us. He had a bad ticker. As you can see, Jethro left some pretty big shoes for me to fill.

I was really sad when Jethro died, so my breeder sent out my grandpa Gus. Gus is short for "Gusto", which is part of his registered name. He also approaches life with a lot of gusto. As often as not, we call him Gussie. I soon realized that I show a lot of resemblance to him and the toy Manchester breed. So much for being a whippet!

After several months of Gus and me being inseparable, Jeb alias "Goose" was shipped out to our home in BC. Mom really likes southern names and that is why she changed his name to "Jeb".

Submitted by: Cynthia Sytnyk & Bev Clarke

Excessive Barking

How should we react to the problem of excessive barking? How can we avoid complaints from neighbours? And how can we understand this behavior and prevent it?

The number one complaint from neighbours of all dog owners is excessive barking. Some dogs spend their lives vocalizing, others are rather silent. We all want to stop our dogs from barking and breaking our ears!

How do we avoid, prevent and help change this behaviour that is so natural for the dog?

The most common advice you will receive might include dropping a can full of pennies, spraying the dog with water, or using a gadget like a collar with a jet of citronnella, one that produces a particular sound or even electric shocks. The results will vary, most of the time it will have some effect but not for long, it may not work at all (Ha! You may discover that some dogs love to be sprayed with water!), or it may cause other problems . Using such methods is like shooting in the dark as they try to modify a result regardless of the cause.

Gadgets can occasionally help to temporarily reduce complaints while you are working through the real problem. However, you must work on this problem if you want reliable results in the long term. To do this, we need to understand why a dog barks.

Boredom

There are several reasons that cause barking. Some people will say that their dog ''barks at nothing''. This is absolutely false. A dog always vocalizes for a reason. We may not understand this reason or we may not find it worthy of all that noise, but it exists and finding it is the first step towards treatment and prevention.

Some breeds are more likely to express themselves by vocalizing than others. but even dogs of those breeds need a reason to vocalize! The dog may bark because he is bored. He would like something to happens and each stimulus, however small it is, drives him to bark in the hope of producing some reaction. It can happen that a dog accused of barking 'for nothing' is actually barking because he saw a bird through the window or because a leaf fell from a tree... he barks because he is bored and has absolutely nothing else to do. This is not only true for the poor dogs tied outside all day but also for spoiled lapdogs within our homes. It may be that this dog has all the care, love and walks, but he has a potential and intelligence far beyond his role as a stuffed doggie.

We could deter the bored dog from barking by putting an electric shock collar on him. If this doesn’t traumatize him too much, he may simply find another activity like destroying stuff, chasing shadows or digging to relieve his boredom. It would be more effective to keep this puppy busy instead of trying to silence him. Some stimulating activities that are physically and mentally interesting will satisfy him. A tired dog is a good dog!

Attention

Linked to boredom, is barking to get attention. Again, the dog has little else to do to amuse himself other than to make us react. He quickly learns that when he makes noises, we jump, shout at him (we bark too!), or even chase him—in short, we leave whatever we are doing and our attention ois 100% on him! It's a super game!

If you start to throw him cans or spray him with water when he vocalizes, unless he is very frightened he may well love this change in the rules of the game. He'll find you very inventive and interesting as you try every trick imaginable to make him silent. Unless you really scare or hurt him (which will have unfortunate consequences on your relationship with him), these approaches will rarely silence him. The best solution is to take proper care of the dog and ignore his vocalizations so as to not reward him with your attention.

Distrust

A very common and serious cause of excessive barking is distrust. In this case, a dog vocalizes to sound the alarm when he is afraid. He wants to warn his family of the great danger he thinks is approaching. The easiest way to prevent this problem is by exposing the puppy to many people, other dogs, cats, horses, trucks, elevators, roller skates and buses at a young age. The period between 2 and 5 months is the best period for socialization.

Without traumatizing the puppy, we want to expose him to all kinds of new people, animals, objects and sounds so he can get used to them. This will help him become a dog with not too much fear who loves everyone. He will not need to bark at everyone who passes by the window and each bag of trash that moves in the wind because it will not make him suspicious, just curious.

Many small breeds of dogs bark for this reason, and it’s easy to see why. Many of them spend too much time at home, always see the same things and are too overprotected in your arms. While prevention at a young age is the best solution, it is possible with some effort and patience to reduce the fear of older timid dogs by gradually getting him use to new things.

One thing to keep in mind is that a dog that barks at things he thinks are suspicious may also be more likely to decide to defend the territory. Some distrustful dogs bark but are fairly easy to stop. Some others vocalize ardently at the window and it is impossible to silence them—you may even be bitten in the process! The dog who is impossible to stop is a dog who thinks he is responsible for the territory, home, garden, and his people. In vocalizing in view of a suspected intruder, he is not only trying to sound the alert but also to intimidate “the enemy”, hoping that they will go away (as the mailman does each day).

This dog really believes he's responsible for us and our safety and if we try to silence him he may even bite, thinking "Come on, don't bother me, I'm trying to protect you!!" This dog will need to be ‘de-responsibilitalized’ with a global approach and coaching that will make him understand that it is humans that protects dogs and not the opposite. It is not his job to be on guard if we are present. By removing this big job from him, he will only warn us if he see something suspicious and will then let us take care of it. This is what is expected of a companion dog: to warn us by two-three barks and stop when requested.

But what if we’re not home? For a suspicious or territorial dog that causes complaints when you're absent, you may start with restricting his view by blocking the outside window, or by keeping the dog in a cage and letting the radio play to disguise the noise outside during our absence. This type of barking often happens for the first time between 6 months and 2 years, and if we do not work to solve the problem immediately it will grow.

Frustration

A final cause of barking is quite frequent and not always easy to resolve, it is frustration. A dog that barks at a game may just be excited, but often there is some element of frustration in the situation. This happens commonly to older dogs who begin to bark a lot while playing or going for a walk to the park because they do not see as well or cannot run like before. It is also possible that your dog sees two other dogs play and would love to get involved but the other dogs ignore him or he does not dare let himself get in the game. The best thing to do in these situations is to redirect his attention, perhaps with a stick or other toy that he can hold in his mouth (he can't bark with his mouth full!) You can also initiate games he can easily manage and that will let off steam and tire him out.

Sometimes, the frustration is much more global and advanced. Many dogs suffer from a lack of direction, supervision, clear rules and interesting stimuli. This is the trouble for today’s modern dog. Though he has the potential, intelligence and need to work for long hours of working dogs, we ask him to be at home, to be caressed and be content with his two walks per day. Compare this life to that of a shepherd dog for example, who, under the clear direction of his human can do a job that will keep him busy all day. The frustration of not knowing what to do with himself can be manifested in different ways, including excessive vocalization.

Though we can silence these dogs with gadgets, this will likely only worsen the problem. The dog could start running in circles all day, chasing his tail, licking his paws and legs to excess, destroying things, digging ... in such a context, taking care of the dog and coaching him is the only real solution. Training is not the only answer either here—consider also getting involved with activities like agility, freestyle, Skijoring, tracking etc. This will certainly help to entertain both the dog and his human!

Prevention is the Best Medicine

So, there you have it: the main reasons why a dog barks, no matter what the breed. Prevention is the easiest way to deal with barking. It starts with choosing a puppy from a stable background, socializing it well and coaching him from the beginning. If you have an older dog who barks, start by figuring out why he is barking and remember that he may be barking for a mixture of the reasons above. The reasons why he barks determine your next steps, because we certainly can’t proceed the same way with a dog barking to alert the neighbourhood as with a dog barking because it occupies him.

And remember: be silent when you are working with barking issues. Too many people start to scream to silence the dog which causes the opposite effect because the dog is encouraged by his human who now vocalizes as much as him!

Submitted by: Linda Richard

Road Trip to the AMTC Nationals

Well, we made it home safe and sound from another AMTC National! We took off From Enumclaw WA. June 22 with three women, 9 dogs, 8 standards and 1 toy, in a Suburban pulling a U-haul trailer. 2100 miles across 8 states, 4200 miles round trip. To make it even more fun 2 of the dogs were in full blown heat and 4 were boys… 3 intact. We did breed one of the girls, will be thinking of “Traveling” names for the puppies. Please feel free to shoot me any ideas you may have. The trip was uneventful, except for the three green-sky-torrential-down-pour-lightning-thunder-hail storms we got stuck in Colorado and Kansas. We were also sad that we missed the Live Six Legged Calf in Oakly, KS (the home of Annie Oakly). The place was closed when we got there.

More on the actual national later!

Canadian Top Dogs - Conformation

Better Late Than Never!

Dogs in Canada magazine has traditionally tracked Top Dog statistics for Canadian Kennel Club events. Though there is some indication that future years' results may be available more quickly, until now official results have been published in July of the following year and this year is no exception. That is why as the 2009 show season hits its peak we find ourselves casting our eyes back to 2008 and another stellar performance for Manchesters in Canadian show rings.

A complete list of the Top 5 Manchesters in each variety for 2008 (and, in fact, every year since 1971!) along with photos and a breakdown of group placements and points can be found on the Canadian Manchester Terrier Club's site at http://www.canadamt.com/awards/topdog/index.htm A recent addition to the site is the new Canadian Record Holders page which features career points for Canada's Top Dogs since 1988. A quick look at the list (which can be viewed here http://www.canadamt.com/awards/records.htm) reveals just how steadily the performance of Canadian MTs continues to improve as three of the Top 5 SMTs and three of the Top 5 TMTs for 2008 also rank among the Top 10 in their variety for career points. Notably, both the Top Toy and the Top Standard Manchesters also placed among the Top 10 performers for their respective Groups.

What the Numbers Say

While Standard Manchester Terriers in 2008 were exhibited at only 35% of Canadian shows and had an average entry of only 1.5 dogs, they didn't let that stop them! SMTs earned a total of 122 group placements, including three Best in Shows, thereby earning group placements at almost 55% of the shows they were entered at. Only two breeds in the Terrier group achieved higher success rates (Kerry Blue and Lakeland Terriers).

Topping the list of 2008's winners was a newcomer, Ch. Darkstar Dream On (pictured above), bred by Janice Watson and owner-handled by British Columbia's Joy Henderson. "Jenn" not only placed #1 in her breed but also ranked #8 among all Terriers in Canada, having earned 14 Group 1sts and 3 Best in Shows on her way to a 1,723 point total for the year.

2007's #3 Standard Manchester, Am/Can Ch Mersey Dare To Compare, moved up one spot to #2 in 2008 with 10 Group one wins to his credit. "Darius" is bred/owned by New Brunswick's Dean & Jennifer Tomes and was handled by Dean. In #3 was the Quebec-owned SMT Ch Diventy's Ginie, owner-handled by her breeder Deanne Venditolli. Meanwhile, two dogs tied for #4 Standard, the first hailing from the U.S. in the form of Jo Acton's Int/Am/Can Ch Rainsong's Immigrant Song. "Columbo" was bred and is co-owned by Jo Acton and Danielle and was handled by Jo. Also in 4th spot was Am/Can GCh Kreuzritters Once In A Blue Moon. No stranger to the Top, having placed #1 in 2006 and 2007, "Lewis" made 2008's Top five with only 10 appearances in the ring in 2008 and qualified as a CKC Grand Champion along the way. He was bred by Tina Sandford and Corrine Walker, is owned by Rebecca MacAulay, Kathy Baer and Tina Sandford and was handled by Rebecca MacAulay. Rounding out the Top 5 was Jennifer and Dean Tomes' Ch Mersey Dare To B Grand. The son of our #2 dog (Darius, as above), "Dillon" earned several nice group placements handled by both Dean Tomes and Amanda Kelly.

In Toy Manchesters, 2008's #1 was a repeat result for Ch Fwaggle Burmack Clear As Mud (pictured above) who also came in among Canada's Top 10 Toy Dogs for th second year running, this time as #10. "Brita's" wins in 2008 included 17 Group 1's, another All-Breed Best in Show and Best of Breed at the 2008 Canadian Manchester National for a total of 2,127 points. She was bred by Wendy & Amanda Kelly and James Burrows, is owned by Wendy & Amanda Kelly and Joy Henderson and was handled to her wins by Joy. Brita's #1 strong finish was a surprise to her owners given that her year ended early in September following her win at the Canadian National as she headed back to Canada's east coast to be bred.

Sibling rivalry being what it is, Brita's younger sister Ch Fwaggle Burmack Shopping Spree battled it out and landed in #2 spot for 2008 with more than 1,000 points earned. Breeders and owners on this bitch are the same as above with the addition of Donna Young as a new owner in '08. "Macy" was handled for most of the year by Amanda Kelly but finished out 2008 with Joy Henderson on the opposite coast.

#3 Toy Manchester for 2008 was Ch Deebet's King Arthur, bred by Ted & Deanna Bettle and owned by Deanna and owner-handler Corey Titon. "Artie" had several nice wins in 2008 including an All-Breed Best in Show. On the strength of his performance in 2008, Artie qualified for Eukanuba's Best of the Best 100 where he was awarded a prestigious Group 1st among tough national competition. Showing off family connections of their own, Artie's sire Ch Saint Lazar's Sir Lancelot easily slid into the #4 slot with an impressive fourth appearance among Canada's Top 5 TMTs. "Lancelot" was bred by Charles and Wanda Walker and was owner-handled again this year by Quebec's Deanne Venditolli. And rounding out the Top 5 is Ch Pocketmouse Born To Be Wild who was bred by Melissa Dostalek and owner-handled by Ontario's Mark Crystal. Best of Variety at 2006's CMTC National, this placement also marks "Mara's" fourth appearance in Canada's Top 5 TMTs.

Time stands still for noone and 2009's show season is now in full swing with a number of impressive wins already earned. Watch this space for news of Canada's Top Obedience performers next month!

Submitted by: Amanda Kelly

Ten Training Maxims

As a professional dog trainer, I watch clients struggling with the same things when trying to get their dogs to communicate with them. Unfortunately, our society has encouraged dog owners to treat their pets as little furry humans rather than a completely distinct species. That's not to say that dogs don't experience similar "emotions" or "states" as humans do. But when walking down the aisles of the pet store these days, products are specifically geared to ascribe human qualities to our dogs. Tshirts for dogs bearing phrases like "bad to the bone" or "princess" encourage people to ascribe human attributes where they don't exist. No wonder we don't understand our dogs!





Below are ten tips that I give as a handout to all my clients on their first training session.

1. Dogs only do what works for them. Period. If it has no immediate benefit for them (that they can determine) then they will not do it. A dog will not wash the dishes or do the laundry because there is no payoff for a dog to do these things. A dog will sit if he understands what you want and gets a reward afterwards for doing it. A dog can learn to run an entire agility course just for the chance to play a game of tug afterwards. If you stop rewarding, however, the dog will stop working. If you put money into a vending machine and press the button you expect something to come out. If nothing comes out, do you put money in it again? Of course not. You stop trying.


2. Your dog has impeccable hearing skills. He heard you the first time. Do not chant commands at your dog. Do not repeat yourself. A command is given once in a sensible tone of voice. If your dog doesn’t do as you asked there can only be two reasons why:
   · He doesn’t understand what you want yet. Explain what you want again and be kind, deliberate and understanding. Maybe go a little slower this time.
   · He’s decided you aren’t serious. Get serious. If he truly understands what you’re asking then he’s lost faith in you. Don’t wait for the mood to strike him. If you want him to sit and he doesn’t sit, go to him, quietly get him to sit and praise lavishly. If you’re not prepared to back up your command with action, don’t give the command.


3. Your dog does not speak English (or any verbal language for that matter). He just doesn’t understand the concept of spoken language. He can only associate certain sounds with consequences, actions and behaviours. He doesn’t understand the cost of his chewing on your Herman Miller leather chaise or the angst you feel from his peeing on the antique Iranian Safavid Period carpet. The more you talk during training the more he will learn to tune out your voice. That’s a terrible mistake to make when one day you need your dog to STOP before he runs into traffic. By all means, talk to your dog during your day-to-day life with him. He loves your voice! Just be aware that during training and when working for you, he requires a lot less noise to be able to concentrate.


4. Dogs learn cause and effect very, very quickly. If your dog doesn’t seem to be learning something, you are not being clear enough to your dog. Consistency is the cornerstone to dog training. That means the same thing happens EVERY SINGLE TIME something else happens. If your dog jumps on you and you want to discourage it, show the dog that his jumping makes you turn your back and leave the room. Crystal clear. Every time. No exceptions. He will learn not to jump on you if you can be consistent. If you cannot be consistent, rethink your expectations of your dog. He’s not a mind reader.


5. Don’t forget to praise your dog! If he only hears about how he did something wrong how will he possibly know when he got it right? Give him a hint, spell it out: this is wrong and this is right! Be delighted and animated when he pleases you. He’ll want to repeat it!


6. Control the head of the dog and you control the whole dog. This principle is aptly demonstrated with a Gentle Leader head collar and lure-reward training. If your dog is not looking at you he is not going to listen to you. Eye contact is critical to training. Get your dog looking at you and then give a command for greater success.


7. Know when to train and when not to train. Dogs cannot learn when they are in pain, need to eliminate, when they’re afraid or in an overly distracting environment. A hungry dog, however, will be eager to focus on you if you are delivering treat rewards. If something seems to be hampering your dog’s concentration, check the environment for distractions, make sure he doesn’t need to eliminate, change your location to a more familiar one or make sure he isn’t too wound up or too tired to focus.


8. Ideally, your dog’s name should only be paired with good news and happy situations. Growling your dog’s name in a fierce voice is not going to leave a great impression in his mind. Try your best to use, “Hey! AAAH! No! Stop it! Whoa!” or some other words to signal your displeasure.


9. Dogs don’t exercise themselves. Ten acres of land will not tire a dog out. Throwing a ball will.


10. A 10 lb. puppy that bites will grow into a 70 lb. dog that bites even harder. Teeth and skin should never meet. Ever.

Every time you interact with your dog you are training. How you behave around your dog has a tremendous impact on how your dog behaves. If there's something your dog's doing that doesn't please you, try to look at yourself first to see if you might be causing it. If we can learn to watch ourselves, our dogs will learn more quickly.

Submitted by: Jennifer Legere

Early Socialization = A Healthy Dog

You’ve probably heard the same story from every corner of dogdom: early, positive, vigorous and ongoing socialization is critical for your puppy’s good development. So just what exactly is meant by socialization?


While a puppy is riding the rollercoaster of learning and growing it becomes increasingly important to expose her to situations, people and objects that she is likely to encounter in her lifetime. It’s not as difficult as you may think, really. We can assume that most dogs will experience many of the same things: the vet, the groomer, Aunt Zelda and her walker, little kids with cookies in their hands squealing, “Puppy!”, men in hats, women in flowing dresses, cars, plastic bags, recycle bins, skateboards, wheelchairs, bicycles and so on. That’s just the variety of life in a human’s world.

Once a puppy leaves for a new home at 8 weeks of age the momentum of socialization can slow down while the new owner struggles to get a grip on toileting, puppy teething and all the day-to-day things that raising a puppy entails. But this is the worst time to become complacent! Physiologically a puppy is perfectly designed to learn new things before the age of 12 weeks. Her natural curiosity coupled with soft jaws and undeveloped motor skills offer a window of time where new experiences, good and bad, are easily learned and often last a lifetime. With a little planning, owners can set up safe and positive situations where a puppy can learn about the world around her.

Years ago vets discouraged owners from taking young puppies outside at all in the misguided view of protecting them from transmissible diseases. New research indicates that as long as the puppy has received its first set of vaccinations, the benefit of socialization outweighs the chance of infection if certain precautions are taken. Keeping the puppy away from areas used by many dogs, inviting guests and safe dogs to socialize in your home and yard and toting your pup in your arms are ways to minimize the dangers of infection and still accomplish your socialization goals.


Certain dogs need more practice at socializing than others while some dogs benefit from occasional “tune ups” from time to time. So just how bad can it be if socialization is allowed to slide? Well, that depends upon the “plasticity” of the dog. A dog’s plasticity, or bounce-back-ability, is dependant upon many factors including breed, age, health, previous experiences, temperament and history of socialization. For example, a dog which was bred to be an independent thinker with quick reflexes and a natural wariness may not as easily adapt to varying environmental conditions as, say, a dog which was bred to accompany his master for hours at a time on a hunt or while fishing. It should come as no surprise that a Manchester Terrier is a breed that will likely require more intense, careful and ongoing socialization than your average Labrador Retriever.

What happens if you’ve adopted an adult dog who hasn’t received adequate socialization as a puppy? This is very often the case with puppies that have been removed from the litter too early in life or that have grown up in a kennel environment. Often these dogs will respond with barking, lunging and biting when surprised, pressured, cornered or while on lead. When a dog’s “plasticity” is very low, even a seemingly small event can trigger an outburst. Sadly, this is the fate of many dogs surrendered to shelters throughout North America. Dogs that cannot tolerate people have far worse outcomes than dogs that dislike the company of other dogs or animals since too many “mistakes” with people can label a dog “dangerous”. In this very litigious society of ours, that label can be a death sentence for the dog. For an under-socialized adult dog, improving her opinion of the world can be difficult and, in some cases, very little can be done. With the guidance of a qualified trainer, desensitization and counter-conditioning of the feared stimuli can help a dog learn to relax and trust that she’s safe. Although painstakingly repetitive and slow, remedial socialization is possible with a carefully thought-out plan.

A dog’s health can affect her behaviour and ability to cope with the rigors of modern life. Painful skin conditions, joint, dental or muscle pain, thyroid and other hormone disorders and wounds can make a dog very touchy and unlike her normal self. Often it is a behaviour change that signals a decline in health so watching your dog for signs of out-of-character behaviour can often lead to an early diagnosis.

Sometimes, despite our best intentions, something comes along and scares a puppy during the socialization phase and we find ourselves dealing with a dog that’s scared of the strangest things. I really don’t know when or how but I have a beautifully socialized, athletic, healthy four year old Toy Manchester Terrier who shrieks if he sees the bottom of a foot. He certainly wasn’t intentionally kicked but somewhere along the way he generalized the sight of a lifted foot with a frightening situation. Although he is always going to struggle with formal obedience heeling exercises he never runs away from us or bolts at the door.

Socialization ideally will continue for the life of the dog. If you stop taking your dog to places and exposing her positively to a variety of situations you risk losing ground. By making the most of that first year, your dog will reward you with great behaviour for years to come. Living a life rich with variety, companionship and security are basic rights that every dog deserves.

Submitted by: Jennifer Legere

Mannies and Babies

Our SMT's were our babies for many years. Now we have a two legged baby added to the mix. Piper and Wrigley lived in a baby free zone for 7 and 4 years respectively so it was a big adjustment for them. I have to admit the first two weeks that Alyssa was home were a bit hectic. Not only did the dogs have to deal with new sounds and a wiggly little person, they had a very hormonal "Mama Bear" to contend with.

The dogs have transitioned well and I'm very pleased with how things are going. It's fun to see how they interact.

Piper is quick with kisses on the baby's bare feet. Twice as quick when a cheerio hits the floor. She has also done the most adjusting. Very in touch with her terrier side, Piper wasn't sure the crying, wiggling bundle of joy needed to be in our house at first but with patience and time has come to realize that Alyssa can be a lot of fun.

Wrigley was very good with the baby right off the bat. He's a mother hen and is hot on my heels when I enter the baby's room each morning. He is very gentle and when the baby crawls near him, he flips over onto his back in surrender. I think they'll be great friends in the future.

When the dogs are around Alyssa, I'm very watchful. Derek would probably say too watchful! However, it's better to be safe. Alyssa is learning how to be respectful of the dog's space and to be gentle and the dogs are learning to accept Alyssa.

I'd enjoy hearing other member's stories about their dogs and children.

Submitted by: Janice Thompson

Summertime with the Manchesters

Well, summer is (finally) here! Many of us are out and about much more with our MTs enjoying the fine weather. Here are a few tips to make your summer adventures a bit more fun for you and your MT:

• remember to bring along fresh water when out for lengthy walks or adventures. Be careful not to allow your dog to drink out of stagnant pools of water. These often contain unhealthy bacteria or parasites. Some lake water may also contain harmful algae growth which can actually be fatal to dogs. It is much safer to provide your dog with water you know is clean.
  
• try to find a dog-safe bug spray when out in areas where dogs will come in contact with mosquitoes, black fly, or other biting bugs. We use all-natural sprays which use lemongrass, ginger and other extracts. We try to avoid those with heavy chemicals.
  
• some Manchesters react to certain bug bites. If you MT has an allergic reaction to a bug bite or a bee sting you can give him/her a dose of antihistamine, such as Bendryl at a dosage of 1mg/lb. We carry Bendryl with us whenever we go out with the dogs in the summer.
  
• if you are in an area with ticks, make sure you check your MT on a regular basis for unwelcome "visitors". For instructions on how to remove a tick, click here.
• if you are in a high-risk area for heartworm (in Canada that includes southern Ontario, southern Quebec, Manitoba and the Okanagan in British Columbia) you should consider using medication to prevent heartworm. This condition is transmitted via infected mosquitoes. If you are planning to travel to a high-risk area this summer be sure to discuss this with your vet before travelling.
  
• when planting your garden, keep your MT in mind. There are a number of plants that are safe for humans but not for dogs. Some of these plants may only cause minor upsets if ingested, while others may have more tragic results. For a listing of some plants to avoid, click here.
• keep an eye on dogs near swimming pools and other bodies of water. Unfortunately there are still too many incidents of accidental drownings of dogs. Sometimes dogs that fall into pools or other bodies of water panic and can't find the a way out.
• watch out for overheating. Our MTs are black and tan...they absorb heat. And although our guys LOVE to sunbathe they still need access to shade and cooler places. In the heat of the summer make sure there are cool places for your MT to relax out of the sun.

So, take some time with your MT and enjoy the summer! And, for your viewing pleasure...here is Tillie enjoying her summer dress (and yes, she truly LOVES dressing up)!

Submitted by: Jennifer Tomes

Growing Like Weeds

Manchester puppies grow quickly during their first year and, in the case of the Toy Manchester, they are often full grown height-wise by 6 months of age! Watching your puppy grow can be one advantage to planning in advance by being on a breeder's waiting list. Many breeders provide baby books with their puppies while others will send photos of their puppies by email as they grow.

Here's one example of just how much a puppy can change physically during its first year:

Day 1

This puppy is only a few hours old and weighs just 6.5 ounces!

10 days

Here she is a few days later and look how much she has grown. She now weighs 15 ounces.

3 weeks

5 weeks
Now she's up on her feet! She weighs in at 1 pound, 15 ounces.

8 weeks

We're up to a whole 3 pounds!

3 1/2 months

Now she is looking like a little dog...

6 months
Time to practice her show poses!

11 months
And voila -- she is now almost a year old and weighs 10 1/2 pounds.
Though she may fill out a tiny bit more, this puppy has now reached almost her full adult weight.

Submitted by: Amanda Kelly